Passu Peak

Passu Peak's dramatic pointed spires are one of the most iconic sights along the Karakoram Highway. Located near Passu village in Gojal, upper Hunza, the peak is part of the Batura Muztagh subrange. Also called Passu Sar or Passu Diar, this striking formation of jagged rock and ice towers has captivated travellers and mountaineers for decades with its cathedral-like silhouette against the sky.

Technical climbing involving mixed rock and ice with significant exposure defines the Passu Peak experience. First climbed in 1994, the mountain remains one of the more challenging objectives in the 6000-metre category due to its steep, complex terrain and the commitment required to navigate its multiple spires. The approach passes through the spectacular Passu Glacier and offers breathtaking views of Tupopdan (Passu Cones), one of the most photographed mountain formations in Pakistan.

The expedition begins from the welcoming village of Passu, situated directly on the Karakoram Highway, making it one of the most accessible high-altitude climbing objectives in the Karakoram. Despite this convenient approach, the mountain itself demands serious technical ability, including proficiency in mixed climbing, steep ice, and route-finding on complex alpine terrain. The surrounding landscape of glaciers, turquoise lakes, and soaring peaks makes this one of the most visually rewarding expeditions in northern Pakistan.

The South Face Route is the standard approach to Passu Peak, beginning directly from Passu village on the Karakoram Highway. The initial stage involves crossing the Passu Glacier, a dramatic landscape of towering ice pinnacles and deep crevasses that requires careful navigation with ropes and crampons. This glacier crossing is an adventure in itself, offering close-up views of the immense ice formations that characterise the Batura Muztagh.

Camp 1 is established at approximately 4,500 metres on a sheltered platform above the glacier. From here, the route steepens considerably as it ascends mixed rock and ice terrain towards Camp 2 at around 5,300 metres. This section demands solid technical climbing skills, including competence on steep ice and exposed rock ridges where fixed ropes are essential.

The summit push from Camp 2 involves navigating the final steep sections of the south face, with mixed climbing on rock and ice leading to the pointed summit spire. Climbers are rewarded with extraordinary panoramic views spanning the Batura Wall, Shispare, Ultar Sar, and the vast expanse of the Karakoram stretching towards the Chinese border. The descent follows the same route, requiring careful down-climbing and rappelling through the technical sections.