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Gasherbrum II in the Karakoram Range
Back to Mountaineering
Mountaineering 8000m Peaks

Gasherbrum II

The gateway to eight-thousander mountaineering

The snow-covered Karakoram peaks near Gasherbrum II
Glacier flowing beneath the Gasherbrum massif
Rocky terrain on the approach to Gasherbrum II
The Karakoram Range surrounding Gasherbrum II
K2 seen from the Gasherbrum II expedition route

Elevation

8,035m

Difficulty

Extreme

Duration

40–50 Days

Best Season

Jun–Aug

About This Peak

Gasherbrum II at 8,035m is the 13th-highest mountain, located in the Karakoram adjacent to Gasherbrum I. It is often considered the most accessible of Pakistan's eight-thousanders and a popular first 8000m peak.

First climbed in 1956 by an Austrian expedition, the mountain sees the highest summit rate of the five Pakistani 8000ers. Its relatively straightforward normal route via the Southwest Ridge makes it ideal for climbers stepping up from 7000m peaks.

Despite being "accessible," it remains a serious undertaking — altitude sickness, crevasses, avalanches, and extreme weather are constant threats above 7,000m.

The Southwest Ridge is the normal route on Gasherbrum II, following the line of the first ascent. It is widely regarded as the most straightforward route on any Pakistani 8000er, though at this altitude nothing is simple.

Base Camp (5,100m): Shared with Gasherbrum I expeditions on the upper Baltoro/Abruzzi Glacier. The approach from Askole takes 7–9 days, passing through Concordia and up toward the Gasherbrum cirque.

Camp 1 (5,900m): Reached via a moderate glacier walk through crevassed terrain. The route weaves between seracs and ice towers to reach a relatively sheltered plateau.

Camp 2 (6,500m): Positioned at the base of the Southwest Ridge proper. From here, the climbing becomes steeper with sustained snow and ice slopes up to 45 degrees.

Camp 3 (7,000m): The high camp on the ridge, with exposed positions offering dramatic views across the Karakoram. Climbers typically spend one or two nights here for final acclimatization before the summit bid.

Summit Push (8,035m): The route from Camp 3 follows the narrowing ridge through mixed terrain, with a final steep snow slope leading to the summit pyramid. The round trip from Camp 3 averages 8–12 hours, making Gasherbrum II one of the shorter summit days among the 8000ers.

Climbing History

1956

First Summit

Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart (Austria) reached the summit on July 7 via the Southwest Ridge.

1975

French Direct Route

A French team established a new direct route on the Southwest Face, adding technical challenge to the mountain.

1982

Reinhold Messner's Ascent

Messner summited as part of his quest to climb all fourteen 8000m peaks — completing it in 1986.

1996

Guided Expeditions Begin

Commercial expeditions began operating on GII, making it one of the more accessible 8000m peaks.

2011

First Winter Ascent

Simone Moro, Denis Urubko, and Cory Richards summited on February 2 in severe conditions, filmed for the acclaimed documentary.

Recommended Reading

Gasherbrum: Der leuchtende Berg

by Reinhold Messner (1984)

Year: 1984
Author: Reinhold Messner

G I und G II: Herausforderung Gasherbrum

by Reinhold Messner (1998)

Year: 1998
Author: Reinhold Messner

What's Included

Not Included

International flights
Travel insurance
Personal expenses
Personal climbing gear

Estimated Cost

$36,000+

per person

Elevation8,035m
DifficultyExtreme
Duration40–50 Days
Best SeasonJun–Aug
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Custom expeditions available for groups of 2+

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