
Gasherbrum II
The gateway to eight-thousander mountaineering





Elevation
8,035m
Difficulty
Extreme
Duration
40–50 Days
Best Season
Jun–Aug
About This Peak
Gasherbrum II at 8,035m is the 13th-highest mountain, located in the Karakoram adjacent to Gasherbrum I. It is often considered the most accessible of Pakistan's eight-thousanders and a popular first 8000m peak.
First climbed in 1956 by an Austrian expedition, the mountain sees the highest summit rate of the five Pakistani 8000ers. Its relatively straightforward normal route via the Southwest Ridge makes it ideal for climbers stepping up from 7000m peaks.
Despite being "accessible," it remains a serious undertaking — altitude sickness, crevasses, avalanches, and extreme weather are constant threats above 7,000m.
The Southwest Ridge is the normal route on Gasherbrum II, following the line of the first ascent. It is widely regarded as the most straightforward route on any Pakistani 8000er, though at this altitude nothing is simple.
Base Camp (5,100m): Shared with Gasherbrum I expeditions on the upper Baltoro/Abruzzi Glacier. The approach from Askole takes 7–9 days, passing through Concordia and up toward the Gasherbrum cirque.
Camp 1 (5,900m): Reached via a moderate glacier walk through crevassed terrain. The route weaves between seracs and ice towers to reach a relatively sheltered plateau.
Camp 2 (6,500m): Positioned at the base of the Southwest Ridge proper. From here, the climbing becomes steeper with sustained snow and ice slopes up to 45 degrees.
Camp 3 (7,000m): The high camp on the ridge, with exposed positions offering dramatic views across the Karakoram. Climbers typically spend one or two nights here for final acclimatization before the summit bid.
Summit Push (8,035m): The route from Camp 3 follows the narrowing ridge through mixed terrain, with a final steep snow slope leading to the summit pyramid. The round trip from Camp 3 averages 8–12 hours, making Gasherbrum II one of the shorter summit days among the 8000ers.
Climbing History
1956
First Summit
First Summit
Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart (Austria) reached the summit on July 7 via the Southwest Ridge.
1975
French Direct Route
French Direct Route
A French team established a new direct route on the Southwest Face, adding technical challenge to the mountain.
1982
Reinhold Messner's Ascent
Reinhold Messner's Ascent
Messner summited as part of his quest to climb all fourteen 8000m peaks — completing it in 1986.
1996
Guided Expeditions Begin
Guided Expeditions Begin
Commercial expeditions began operating on GII, making it one of the more accessible 8000m peaks.
2011
First Winter Ascent
First Winter Ascent
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko, and Cory Richards summited on February 2 in severe conditions, filmed for the acclaimed documentary.
Recommended Reading
Gasherbrum: Der leuchtende Berg
by Reinhold Messner (1984)
Gasherbrum: Der leuchtende Berg
by Reinhold Messner (1984)
G I und G II: Herausforderung Gasherbrum
by Reinhold Messner (1998)
G I und G II: Herausforderung Gasherbrum
by Reinhold Messner (1998)
What's Included
Not Included
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